1. Adobe Capture For Computer
2. Capture One Adobe Lightroom
3. Capture One Pro Vs Adobe Lightroom
4. Capture One Adobe Rgb
5. Capture One Vs Adobe Lightroom Reddit
6. Capture One Does Not Recognize Camera

Topaz Labs released Sharpen AI version 3.0 with faster AI Engine and model improvements for large blur. Starting today through April 9, Sharpen AI is on sale for $59.99 ($20 off). The old Topaz Utility Bundle has been renamed to Image Quality Bundle and is also on sale for $199.99 – more than $150 in savings. The new Image. Capture One meanwhile, applies higher default sharpening settings, where the indicated values vary from camera to camera. With Canon sensors, the default Amount setting is usually 180 (on a scale of 0–1,000), while for the Fujifilm X-Pro1, the default Amount is 140.

Are Lightroom users getting the most out of their RAW files and can they be sure the RAW-processing software they use is as good as Lightroom’s leading competitor? It’s a worrying thought, yet this is the claim being made by some reviewers in head-to-head comparisons between Adobe Lightroom and Capture One Pro. If you were to count up all the hours you’ve spent processing your files in Lightroom, you’d want to be reassured your creative efforts haven’t been wasted. So earlier this year I spent some time comparing the RAW-processing controls in both programs in detail. From this, I concluded Capture One is indeed a solid RAW processor that has a number of unique features that are missing in Lightroom; however, these don’t include better sharpness and color/tone rendering. This article takes a close look at the image processing in Capture One and Lightroom and shows how the two programs are actually more similar than you might think. Although the comparisons shown here were done in Lightroom, you’ll see the same kinds of results if you work in Adobe Camera Raw.

How Sharpness Is Defined

The reason why Capture One is perceived to be sharper than Lightroom is mainly due to the default settings used. By default, Lightroom applies a 25 Amount sharpening to all RAW images (on a scale of 0–150). The actual amount of underlying sharpening that’s applied varies from camera to camera, but Adobe’s aim is to apply a base-level amount of sharpening that makes all RAW files appear equally sharp at a 25 setting. It’s actually a rather conservative amount, and all images will benefit from having at least this much sharpening without the risk of seeing ugly artifacts. The intention is to let photographers decide how much further they wish to adjust the Amount, Radius, Detail, and Masking sliders to fine-tune the sharpening effect.

Capture One meanwhile, applies higher default sharpening settings, where the indicated values vary from camera to camera. With Canon sensors, the default Amount setting is usually 180 (on a scale of 0–1,000), while for the Fujifilm X-Pro1, the default Amount is 140. In all cases, the Capture One sharpening setting is roughly double that applied by Lightroom. If you increase the Amount sharpening slider in the Detail panel in Lightroom to around 45–55, you’ll see a closer match in sharpness. In case you think this is cheating, you can check to see what happens when the sharpening is disabled. At a zero setting, images appear equally unsharp in Capture One and Lightroom. Increase the sharpening settings in Lightroom and most images will appear to be just as sharp. [Note: All the close-up views throughout this article were taken at a magnification of 800% on a HiDPI display.]

This next image (above) shows a comparison of the Capture One and Lightroom renderings. In Photoshop, I placed the Lightroom-adjusted rendered version as a layer above the Capture One default rendered version and set the blend mode to Difference near the top left of the Layers panel. I then added an Invert adjustment layer (Layer>New Adjustment Layer>Invert), plus a Levels adjustment layer (Layer>New Adjustment Layer>Levels) set to Auto (to amplify the difference). This emphasized the difference in edge detail such as on the contours of the guitar.

There are other factors to consider here though. Capture One appears to apply what can best be described as a wide-edged, Clarity-type enhancement that can make the high-contrast edges stand out more. This isn’t always evident, but is most noticeable on certain types of images, such as in the photo here of the guitarist, where the contours of the guitar had slightly better definition in the Capture One rendered version. This can be matched to some extent in Lightroom by adding a small amount of Clarity.

It so happens that Capture One applies by default a 50 Luminance Noise Reduction, whereas the default in Lightroom is zero. Because Capture One applies a more aggressive sharpening, the Luminance Noise Reduction is most likely necessary to prevent noise artifacts from being sharpened. Compared to Lightroom, the Capture One Luminance Noise Reduction produces smoother results; therefore, there’s a slight loss of fine-detail texture, as can be seen in close-up views of this pine forest image below.

When the sharpening and noise reduction are zeroed, there’s very little difference and both appear equally un­sharp. When the default sharpening and noise reduction settings are compared, the Capture One version appears to be sharper; however, when the Lightroom Detail panel controls are adjusted to match the Capture One default settings, and a small amount of Clarity is added, the Lightroom version matches the sharpness of the Capture One version more closely.

Essentially, the Capture One approach applies a stronger, more aggressive sharpening and adds a small amount of Luminance Noise Reduction to compensate for any noise increase. Once you balance out these differences by increasing the sharpening, noise reduction, and midtone contrast in Lightroom, it’s apparent that the Lightroom approach seems to preserve more micro detail. So while Capture One processing can produce images where the contrast edge detail is enhanced, this is done at the expense of fine-detailed texture. These differences are very minor, though, and you have to go pixel peeking to really appreciate them. Most of the time the extra sharpening that’s applied by Capture One is pleasing, and where it’s too strong, can be tamed by reducing the sharpening settings.

Capture One has Amount, Radius, and Threshold sliders to control the sharpening, whereas Lightroom has Amount, Radius, Detail, and Masking sliders. The Detail slider in Lightroom is excellent for enhancing the sharpness (especially with low ISO captures), and the Masking slider is useful for concentrating the sharpness on the sharp edges only. These extra controls provide Lightroom users with additional scope to fine-tune the sharpening in ways Capture One can’t.

Color Rendering

The color appearance is determined by how the RAW processing software interprets the color data. When you shoot in JPEG mode, the camera processor converts the colors to whatever color look or picture style you’ve chosen in the camera settings menu. When you shoot in RAW mode, you have the option to select the type of look you prefer afterwards via Lightroom’s Camera Calibration panel before applying any further color edits. If you have never before explored this menu option, it’s worth checking out the different color looks you can apply, including Camera Standard (which will match the
camera JPEG color rendering). The point is that any of these options can be considered a suitable starting point. Which you should choose depends on whether you’re looking for color fidelity, a saturated color look, or something else. By default, Lightroom applies the Adobe Standard camera profile to all newly imported images. This is designed to provide the best color accuracy and is created from images shot of X-Rite color targets.

The Capture One color rendering differs from Lightroom’s in a number of respects. With some cameras, such as Canons, the colors will appear notably warmer and the skin tones richer in color. While the Adobe Standard profile in Lightroom will achieve a fairly good match when processing Phase One and Fuji files, the Adobe Portrait profile generally works best for Canon and Nikon files. To achieve a more exact match, it’s often necessary to tweak the HSL panel controls. Basically, if you want an image processed in Lightroom to precisely match a Capture One look, you’ll also need to use the HSL panel. It can be done, but it’s more likely users will want to stick with the default color look and use this as the base starting point from which to make further color edits.

Tone Editing

The interesting thing about Capture One is how the tone settings are adaptive. For the most part, Capture One applies an extra amount of contrast that adds more of a kick to the shadows compared to Lightroom’s default Linear Tone Curve setting. I would describe Capture One’s contrast setting as producing a more film-like look. When Capture One encounters high-contrast subjects, however, it adaptively applies a softer contrast curve. This is kind of similar to the way the Auto tone function in Lightroom works, except when you click Auto, the tone adjustments in Lightroom can sometimes work well, but other times look awful. Capture One appears to have a built-in auto contrast adjustment that is, by comparison, tamer and more often than not spot on. That said, the default option is to apply a fairly strong tone curve, one that’s similar to selecting a Medium Contrast setting in Lightroom’s Tone Curve panel. This is why comparison tests tend to show Lightroom images looking softer and less punchy.

With the Exposure slider adjustments, I noticed Capture One allows the highlight tones to compress as you increase the Exposure. Lightroom does this too, but does a better job of preserving the tonal separation in the highlights without requiring a separate Highlights slider tweak.

Adobe Capture For Computer

A more obvious difference be­tween Capture One and Lightroom tone adjustments is the way the Highlights and Shadows sliders respond and the types of halos they generate. In the accompanying examples, you’ll notice how when editing a regular image, the tone width range for the Capture One controls is narrower (which can lead to less flattening of the midtone contrast). With this type of image, the Capture One Highlights and Shadows sliders are more effective at darkening the highlights and lightening the shadows. If you take an image that features a wider dynamic range scene, the Lightroom sliders have a more concentrated lightening and darkening effect compared to Capture One.

How to Get the Capture One Look

As you’ve seen, it’s possible to tweak the settings in Lightroom to achieve results that are more like the Capture One default look. You can do this by adjusting the Develop module settings each time you open an image, but you can best do this by making Develop presets, or creating new default settings. The actual settings will vary from camera to camera, but as a rough guide, I suggest you try the following:

Step One: In the Detail panel, increase the Sharpening and Luminance Noise Reduction settings. Set the Sharpening Amount slider as follows: Nikon: 75, Canon: 55, and Sony and Fuji X-Trans: 45. Set the Radius slider to 0.9 and the Detail slider to 15 and leave the Masking slider set to 0. In the Noise Reduction section, set the Luminance slider to 35.

Step Two: Now, go to the Presets panel and click on the plus icon to create a new preset. Click Check None; check on only the Sharpening, Luminance Noise Reduction, and Process Version boxes; and click OK to create a new “Sharpening and noise reduction” preset. You’ll notice I also created a “Capture One Simulation” folder to which to save the preset. Just click on the Folder drop-down menu, select New Folder, name your folder, and click Create in the New Folder dialog. Click Create again to close the New Develop Preset dialog.

Step Three:Next, go to the Tone Curve panel and select Medium Contrast from the Point Curve drop-down menu. Repeat Step Two, but this time only check the Tone Curve and Process Version boxes and save as a “Medium Contrast” preset to the same Capture One Simulation folder.

Step Four: Go to the Camera Calibration panel and select Camera Portrait from the Profile drop-down menu. Once again you’ll want to create a new preset. Check the Calibration and Process Version boxes only and save as “Camera Portrait” to the same Capture One Simulation folder.

Step Five: Having done that, reset all of the above settings to their defaults and save as a “Reset Settings” preset. You’ll need to check all the items shown here in the New Develop Preset dialog. This preset can be used to reset the Detail panel sharpening, noise reduction, Tone Curve panel, and Calibration panel settings.

Step Six: Now open an image and click to apply each of the presets in turn to see which combination improves the appearance of the image. If necessary, click the Reset Settings preset to start over, especially since not all images will benefit from a contrast boost or Camera Portrait profile.

Step Seven: There’s also the option to save any of the above adjustments as a default setting. In the Develop module Develop menu, choose Set Default Settings. This opens the dialog shown here where the currently applied settings will become the new default for this particular camera. It’s important that no other settings are applied other than those you wish to make the defaults.

As an optional step, go to the Quick Develop panel in the Library module and click on the Temperature single-right-arrow button. This will apply a small warming white balance adjustment relative to the current white balance setting.

These suggested settings are a guide to the kind of settings needed to simulate the Capture One look. I’ve found Capture One’s default sharpening settings for Nikon to be more aggressive than the amount applied for other cameras, so I’d suggest using a 55 Amount sharpening setting. For images that are already quite contrasty, I suggest leaving the Tone Curve setting as is. You could also include a Basic panel +10 or +15 Clarity adjustment. In some instances, this can help match the Capture One look, but this adjustment doesn’t suit all images, and I recommend you manually add Clarity only where you feel it’s necessary to do so.

Two Different Philosophies

In conclusion, if you simply compare default settings, the results will look different. If you go beyond the basics and actually edit in Capture One or Lightroom, you can make your photos look similar, or make them look however you want. Having worked in Capture One, I have full confidence in the program’s image-editing controls, just as I have in Lightroom. The perceived wisdom that Capture One is sharper is mostly based on a superficial analysis of the default settings.

Capture One does outshine Lightroom in some respects though. The color editing sliders offer better fine-tuning control, particularly for skin tones. The Shadows and Highlights sliders have a greater range of tone control when editing regular dynamic range images. The new Luma Curve is useful for precise control of luminance and color contrast. The global moiré removal is faster, and the black-and-white conversion process is good at suppressing halos along areas of color contrast.

Lightroom, meanwhile, has extra controls to fine-tune the sharpening and noise reduction. The Vibrance slider offers better control over the color saturation. GPU support means Lightroom’s Develop sliders are more responsive. Lightroom has superior retouching tools, plus more effective lens correction and perspective controls. It also has fully integrated DNG support to enable things such as Panorama and HDR Photo Merges.

The biggest difference between the two programs, though, is a difference in philosophy. Lightroom aims for a standardized result where the tone and color rendering is deliberately made more conservative. This reminds me of the time I spent at art school learning to print in black and white. I was taught to produce the contact sheets on a soft-contrast grade of paper, because this would reveal the full extent of tones captured by the negative. In Lightroom, the initial rendering is meant to be a starting point, and Lightroom provides the color, tone, and sharpening controls you need to realize your vision.

Capture One’s philosophy is to produce a more optimized look that doesn’t necessarily require further editing. This may have led to the perception that Capture One is sharper and punchier, but in reality neither program is inherently better than the other when it comes to actually working on your images and adjusting the settings to suit individual tastes.

I am disinclined to criticize Capture One’s approach. If Capture One customers find the optimized approach gives them the end result they’re after quicker, are they wrong if they happen to like what they see? Capture One certainly has the professional-level tools to produce great-looking images, but Lightroom users shouldn’t be sidetracked by claims for Capture One’s superiority. Fundamentally, the two programs aren’t as different as some might have you believe.

This article originally published in the September, 2016 issue of Photoshop User magazine. To learn more about Lightroom or Capture One, check out our full length classes.

We’ve all seen various advertisements pop up promoting photography
software claiming to be the next Adobe Lightroom or Adobe Photoshop. In many
cases, a clunky, poorly arranged user interface kills interest; and exceptions
to this rule often look somewhat plagiarised. Where new software is given a fair
chance, it usually fails to deliver as many features, it’s sluggish or it doesn’t
offer something Adobe hasn’t already thought of. It takes something pretty
compelling for me think “Hey, this is cool. This is really cool!” especially
when the Adobe Creative Cloud software suite is so heavily programmed into my
muscle memory. Capture One Pro 20 is impressive, feature rich and speedy
software.

Whether you’ve put 10,000 hours into the Adobe Creative
Cloud or you’re a complete beginner to photography and image editing as a whole,
I think you should try it. You may even save a buck or two in the process as it
might be all you ever need!

Capture One Adobe Lightroom

Capture One Pro 20 First Impressions

When I first installed the Capture One Pro 20 photography
editing software, I realised this is not a replacement for Adobe Photoshop. It doesn’t
try to be, but it does have to offer something Adobe cannot give for people
like myself to be interested in it. Many of us are already tied into a paid Adobe
subscription and are close to satisfied with what they offer.

Speed

When I installed Capture One Pro 20, I had been serendipitously researching the Sony a7r IV. Concerned editing the Sony a7r IV 61mp RAW files might challenge my system, out of pure curiosity, I tried a 150mp RAW file I had downloaded from the Phase One website. Immediately noticeable was how I could edit it at an almost identical speed compared to my Sony a7rII 42mp RAW files. From my limited understanding of the software, Capture One Pro 20 doesn’t render beyond what you view and so a camera’s megapixel count won’t matter much. If you preview a photograph in Adobe Lightroom Classic, it will do the “swirly thing” and several seconds later the result is shown in more detail; the bigger the photograph, the longer it takes. If you zoom into a photograph with Capture One Pro 20 you will not have to wait long at all. If you then move to another point of the photograph, it will render that i.e. it doesn’t render it all at once.

Capture One Pro 20 is far superior when initially importing
an album. Adobe Lightroom might seem slightly quicker once all of the previews have
been rendered, but it doesn’t suit my workflow and it’s all undone once
something in the develop module has been changed; previews have to be rebuilt
regardless of how small a change is.

Colour

The colours in Capture One Pro 20 are immediately noticeable
and look more natural and similar to in camera JPGs. Ultimately it is
subjective, but everyone I’ve spoken to who has used this software for a while
prefers its colour, micro-contrast and speed. I think it’s why it has become an
industry standard for various photographic genres around the globe.

Software Compatibility, Capture One Pro 20 & Adobe Photoshop CC Round-trip

Adobe Lightroom Classic makes it easy to do quick edits and open the file up in Adobe Photshop CC 2020. If you’re concerned Capture One Pro 20 won’t play nice, fear not. A Capture One Pro 20 and Adobe Photoshop CC round-trip is as simple as with Adobe Lightroom Classic. You can export as TIFFs or PSDs so you will not lose dynamic range, detail, etc. and the colours can all be kept from the Capture One Pro 20 software. PSD files are recognised in the photo browser as well.

User Interface

Capture One Pro 20’s user interface isn’t a plagiarism of
Adobe’s, but you will be quite familiar with a lot of the tools e.g. curves,
layers, the histogram tool, etc.

It was a pretty fast and easy transition for me to change
from Adobe Lightroom Classic to Capture One Pro 20, but I recommend spending a
while configuring the user interface and getting comfortable with it. If
something doesn’t quite fit, the chances are it can be changed to your liking. For
example, by holding down the ‘alt’ key and dragging ‘left click’, you can move
the “tool tabs” around. This can be particularly useful if you edit images in a
certain order e.g. you start with cropping, then colour, then curves, and so
on.

Show Folder Hierarchy, Side Panels and
Shortcuts

You might like to use the “Migration” layout. It’s found by
pressing ‘alt + w + w’ and clicking “Migration”. Alternatively click ‘Window’
-> ‘Workspace’ -> ‘Migration’.

Personally, I prefer to use the ‘default’ workspace with the
tools swapped so they’re on the right side of the screen: press ‘ctrl + shift +
t’, alternatively you can go to ‘view’ -> ‘customise tools’ -> ‘place
right’.

By clicking the 9 little squares below the “import” button,
towards the top left of the screen, and stretching out the window so two photographs
are shown side by side, I can browse photographs to my liking. This method
shows how many stars a photograph has, whether it’s flagged and its filename. Capture
One Pro 20 can show photographs at the bottom of the screen, like Adobe
Lightroom, but I’ve grown to prefer this layout. “Ctrl + b” toggles the photo
browser.

Stars can be used for all kinds of things and not
necessarily to rate how good a photograph is. For example, if you always tag
your important ambient photographs in camera with two stars, and flash
photographs with three stars, it will make it easier to do composite edits. I
digress…

After you’ve imported your library (‘File’ -> ‘Import
Catalogue’ -> ‘Lightroom Catalogue’), I suggest you click the ‘Library’ tool
tab. On the side you will notice three dots, click ‘Show Folder Hierarchy’. This
displays the photograph structure like Adobe Lightroom. Unfortunately you will
have to click a sub-folder to see your photographs in the photo browser.
Clicking 2019 for example will show “0” by the side.

For future imports, you will probably want to change the default configuration. Go to ‘File’ -> ‘Import Images’ or “Ctrl + Shift + I” and where it says “Import To” -> “Destination” click the appropriate main folder where you store your photographs. You can copy and paste the following information for the “Sub Folder”:

This method creates separate folders upon importing, for example: C:Photographs20192019-122019-12-25. If you do all of this correctly, you can import photographs with either Adobe Lightroom or Capture One Pro 20, and you will not have to move folders around. If you import photographs in Capture One Pro 20, you will have to “synchronise” folders in Adobe Lightroom to recognise the new photographs. Once you get used to this software, it is unlikely you will want to use Adobe Lightroom though but during a transition period, it’s quite nice to be able to use both.

I also go to preferences, exposure warning, enable shadow
warning and set that to “2”. I set exposure warning to “248”. For Sony camera
users, if you shoot with creative style set to neutral -2 on contrast and set a
custom zebra to 109, you will find your RGB histogram in camera is showing a
similar RAW clipping point (when you first see zebras stop pushing) to Capture
One Pro 20.

Tool Differences

As previously stated, you’ll be familiar with how a lot of
the tools operate but it’s worth understanding all of them and how they differ
from each other. For example, “process” can export one photograph and it be
used in the exact same way as the “export variant” tool. It is a lot more
sophisticated than that though and you can export a photograph in various
different file formats, so let’s pretend you want a 1024px for Instagram, a
full-resolution JPG for your client and a TIFF file saved on your server
somewhere, you can do that.

• The HDR tool has been changed since Capture One
  Pro 12 and it’s now more similar to Adobe Lightroom Classic.
• The default distortion setup is different and I
  find you have to play around with it a bit to mimic Adobe Lightroom. But as
  with everything, you can save settings and you might find Capture One Pro 20 to
  be superior by default.
• The most impressive tool I’ve found which really
  sets it apart is with curves. The common “S” point curve to add contrast works
  as you’d expect, but Capture One Pro 20 allows you to adjust “Luma curves”.
  These are a lot like regular RGB curves except saturation isn’t interfered with
  as much. I much prefer them, especially when working with landscape
  photographs.
• Grain is far superior and more realistic.
• Layers operate like Adobe Photoshop and a new
  layer will allow you to adjust everything with sliders set to “0” (but it will
  obviously keep settings from the layer below). If you’ve pushed a setting to
  the maximum on a previous layer, e.g. exposure, you will like this.

The tools in general seem to work quicker and smoother than Adobe Lightroom. I also find that the white balance readings seem a bit more accurate. Type 5500K into Adobe Lightroom or Adobe Photoshop Camera Raw and try the same with Capture One Pro 20… you will see what I mean, haha.

Colours

Capture One Pro 20 has an impressive array of tools for adjusting colours. They’re intuitive and powerful.

There are numerous ways to adjust colours, including global hue, saturation and luminosity sliders. You can also use the “eye dropper” tool and click any point of a photograph, sample its colour and adjust that colour’s values. Separate “dials” allow you to split tone e.g. add a blue tint to shadows and a yellow tint to highlights.

All of this can be saved into a “style” so that you can apply these settings to other photographs. Settings can be “copied and pasted” to separate photographs as well.

Configuring ICC Colour Profiles with an X-Rite Colour Passport in Capture One Pro 20

At some point you’ll probably want to create an ICC profile
using an X-Rite Colour Passport. Creating an ICC profile based on an X-Rite
Colour Passport in Capture One Pro 20 is easy but it does require you to change
a few settings to begin with. Once you’ve set it up, you can do it much quicker
the next time around:

• Open Capture One Pro 20
  • Open the “base characteristics” tab
  • – “icc profile” –> show all –> effects –> “no colour correction”
  • – curve –> “linear response”
    • + export as “variant”
  • – format –> tiff & 16 bit
  • – options –> uncompressed
  • – icc profile –> adobe RGB (1998)
  • + save to desktop
• Close Capture One Pro 20
• Open X-Rite colour calibration software and click “ICC TIFF”
  • – drag the file into the window
  • – export to desktop (the capture one folder has permissions disallowing it to be saved there by default)
    • + move the exported file into the “C:Program FilesPhase OneCapture One 20Color ProfilesDSLR” folder but name it similarly to the others e.g. SonyA7RM2-Generic –> SonyA7RM2-Happy
• Relaunch Capture One Pro 20

My Capture One Pro 20 and Adobe Photoshop CC Workflow

Once I’d figured out the initial set up and got used to
that, I was ready to edit. I’ve had this software since the Beta now and I feel
quite familiar with it. A lot of my photography involves changing the white
balance, contrast, colours, lighting a bit (dodge and burn) and correcting
verticals, often to mimic a tilt and shift lens. Sometimes I will do more
complicated composite edits.

With all of the tool tabs and whatnot arranged in the order
I work, I don’t have to scroll up and down and back up and so on through the
tools, like I would with Adobe Lightroom Classic.

I now mostly use Luma curves instead of regular RGB curves,
as they interfere with saturation less.

The only major interference I’ve noticed with my workflow is
the key stoning tool. It doesn’t have the artificial intelligence Adobe
Lightroom Classic offers and sometimes it takes a little while longer to fix
converging verticals. This is probably mitigated by the fact the sliders are
all less sluggish than the tools found with Adobe Lightroom Classic. I realise
I sound like a broken record at this point, but it’s Adobe Lightroom Classic I
have a problem with, not Adobe Photoshop CC 2020. I still use Adobe Photoshop
CC 2020 for dodge and burning, and more complicated edits in general. For me,
it’s about using the right tool for the job.

Capture One Pro Vs Adobe Lightroom

Pricing

Capture One Pro 20’s pricing is nice. You can buy an
“eternal” license which means you do not need to pay a monthly fee. It will
include a certain amount of major updates for the software and after that you
will need to upgrade. If you upgrade your camera infrequently, it is likely
perfect for what you want. The other pricing system is rather like Adobe where
you pay a monthly fee but you will be guaranteed to have the latest and
greatest software.

Conclusion

The Capture One Pro 20 software makes Adobe Lightroom
obsolete in my workflow but it also encroaches somewhat on Adobe Photoshop’s
territory with the addition of layers; however, it doesn’t replace it nor does
it try to. If you are a photographer that does a lot of colour correction but
you use some of the more complicated tools (like liquify) sparingly, you may
find Capture One Pro 20 is all you need.

Capture One Adobe Rgb

If there’s one thing you should take from this article, it is that Luma Curves, the superior colour rendition of Capture One Pro 20 and the faster rendering are the three biggest reasons as to why you should give Capture One Pro 20 a fair shot in your photography workflow. Its handling of colour and speed is unsurpassed.

Room for Improvement

• Auto keystone adjustment is only applicable to
  images captured with a Phase One IQ series digital back.

I’d like Phase One to talk with camera manufacturers
(especially Sony, for selfish reasons) and request orientation sensor
information (there’s already a level in most cameras, so it is possible) be
sent to EXIF (if it is not already). From there, I’d like Phase One to utilise this
information and have it be interpreted by their Capture One Pro 20 image
editing software.

In practical use, pretend you took a photograph and you had to point the camera up by 15 degrees to include buildings, but it left wonky verticals. The software could then correct the converging verticals based on the information provided in the EXIF data. Orientation sensors are not accurate to within 0.00001 degrees, but they are precise enough to get the ball rolling. Another practical example would be to correct a tilted horizon from a rushed photograph.

The second—unrelated to EXIF data—autocorrect keystone option
I’d like to see is the Adobe Lightroom method, where the image is analysed and
corrected accordingly.

• Unfortunately you cannot click a folder containing multiple folders, and it shows all of the photographs in the photo browser. You will have to click a sub-folder to see them.
• You cannot geotag photographs like you can with Adobe Lightroom. I often use my smartwatch’s GPX files.

Please note that none of these are deal breakers at all.

Frequently Asked Questions

• Can you import JPG images and Adobe DNG from an Android Phone with the Sony or Fuji purchase?
  • Yes but you cannot edit Canon RAW files for example.
• Can I load this on a desktop and a laptop?
  • A single-user license can be activated on up to 2 computers but it can be deactivated from one and activated on another.
• Is it subscription based only?
  • No. It can be either subscription or an eternal license.
• Is my camera supported?
  • You can check if your camera is supported using their website.

Capture One Vs Adobe Lightroom Reddit

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Capture One Does Not Recognize Camera

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